Just before midday we set off from our guesthouse in Xela with a leisurely morning behind us and heaps of time to get to the border (or so we thought). We knew the route and what methods of transport we would need so it was going to be an easy journey to make.
First off was another colectivo back to Minerva bus station where we asked around until we found the right bus. We had thought we might have been able to get just one bus all the way to Malacatan but were told we would need to change at San Marcos like we did on our initial journey to Xela five weeks previous.
Crazy and bright looking chicken buses
So off we set quite relaxed with taking the chicken buses by now and feeling comfortable with only the two of us on the seat. First bus done with no worries.
In San Marcos we boarded the next bus which took about 10 minutes before departure. It was soon after we set off that our sense of haste kicked in. Of course we had no control over the speed of our travel, unless we wanted to take a taxi which would have been expensive. Making matters worse our bus was in go-slow-mode due to overheating brakes. It was around this point in the trip that it suddenly dawned on us that we would be losing an hour upon arrival into Mexico because of daylight savings which Guatemala doesn’t have. I should mention that our reason for all this talk about time was because we knew there was an overnight bus to Oaxaca which would depart at 7.15pm, and due to the aforementioned brake problem we had begun to notice the time slipping by rather rapidly.
Just to add to the stress as we climbed our way through the mountains out of San Marcos a thick fog set in and stayed with us pretty much all the way to the border. Then the fog turned into torrential rain and our bags were on the roof in the usual chicken bus fashion. Extra stress! Neither of us liked the idea of our current worldly belongings being saturated and we hadn’t noticed if a tarpaulin had been used to cover them. There was a silver lining to the rain which was that it had obviously cooled the brakes as the bus was back into go-fast-mode.
Finally we arrived in Malacatan and if we were nail biters I think we would have chewed our poor nails to the skin by now. Luckily the bags had been covered and were only a little damp. Also our bags are made of a sturdy canvas and have a little waterproofing due to this so nothing inside them was actually wet. Squishing into a colectivo with our packs on the roof again, this time without a cover but luckily the rain had eased, we were on our way to the border.
As I mentioned in my post about our journey to Guatemala (check that out here) the border crossing is really easy on foot. We had our passports stamped on the Guatemalan side after ignoring the taxi drivers and headed across the bridge and back into Mexico. The Mexican side took a little longer as we had to pay for our visas and then have our bags checked. Overall it took less than an hour and I was (finally) able to use the bathroom.
Jumping into another colectivo which would hopefully get us to the bus station in Tapachula on time we set off. Unfortunately this colectivo didn’t take the route we expected and we made it by running to the counter at the ADO bus terminal at exactly 7.15pm, just as the first boarding call was being announced, only to be told that tickets to the bus we wanted were sold out. OH NO! Time to reassess our plans.
The lady behind the counter told us that there was another bus which could take us to Juchitan near the Oaxacan coast and from there we could get another bus to Oaxaca City. Well that sounded like it would work even though it was a little annoying and a few hours extra we would now have time for dinner and get into Oaxaca around mid-afternoon instead of early morning. We decided to grab dinner across the road at the restaurant we had eaten at on our previous stay in Tapachula before boarding the bus.
The bus was annoying to say the least as we were stopped at least two, maybe three, times and woken from our sleep as armed personal checked our bus. At the second of these stops we were required to get our bags and walk though a customs building. As we had to in the airport we pushed a button which would give us green or red lights signalling if our bags would be checked. Luckily it was all green lights and we were back in the bus trying to get back to sleep.
Juchitan at 6am in the morning wasn’t my favourite destination in the world but we managed by watching a few episodes of True Detective. Soon the time had passed and we were on another bus, this time second class, to Oaxaca. We drove through some very pretty mountain scenery on the six hours it took to get to Oaxaca though the windiness of the road wasn’t making me feel the best so I mostly dozed. When we made a food stop I was really happy as we hadn’t eaten since the previous evening. A torta with egg and chorizo really hit the spot and even made me feel a little better about the roads which is usually the opposite of how my motion sickness works.
Finally we neared Oaxaca and I was very ready to get out of a moving vehicle. We had been travelling for 26 hours and were exhausted. Of course we still had to find accommodation. We had decided to not return to our previous hotel because it was a little pricey for what it was and the mosquitoes annoyed us a lot. You can read about the first time we spent in Oaxaca here; go on have a look.
I’ll be back shortly with a post on our two nights in Oaxaca. It’s just a quick visit but we enjoyed it as Oaxaca city has been one of our favourite places.